Showing posts with label copying. Show all posts
Showing posts with label copying. Show all posts

Sunday, 27 April 2014

Goeree, Chapter III

transcribed by Lala Ragimov, original spelling kept

An introduction to the general art of drawing. 

A 1674 English translation of
a drawing treatise by Willem Goeree (1635-1711)

 <<Previous Chapter            Table of Contents            Next Chapter>>

______________________________________




CHAP. III.
Of the Order and Manner to be Observed in the Art of Drawing.

IN respect that in all things there is a manner and order, or at least ought to be, so do we esteem (observing our Promise) it necessary to go forward from step to step, therefore when the young Practitioner is now well-grounded in drawing the Oval, and knows how he must draw a face, and the several part thereunto belonging in the same Oval.

First step. To draw after Draughts very profitable

Then will I  here shew him the first step of his exercise, viz. he must exercise himself to draw with earnest desire and diligence after good Draughts or Prints, which are duly observed, and judicially compleated. And by drawing after draughts (I judge) to be most profitable for those that intend to exercise Painting, but as for those that intend Engraving or Etching, let them follow the best Prints after the ablest Masters, which they intend to practice by: therefore he that teacheth, shall at first shew the young Practitioner the easiest and facilest ways according to his intended Practice, whether for Painting, Engraving, or Etching, according to the capacity of the Practitioner, and so go forward from that which is easie to that which is harder, observing this Order as well in drawing as in the draught which you give unto him to imitate and follow, until at last put before him, observing that which (of the properties belonging to drawing) we shall declare hereafter.

Second step. To draw after Pictures. Requires greater judgement. For what reason

    The second step of his Exercise is, to draw after pictures to bring them out of a great into a small proportion, and by this oftentimes using, they will learn and be accustomed to guess well, and beget a good and sure hand in drawing. And as this is the second step of his Exercise, so it is harder and requires greater judgement and knowledge, for in a picture you finde neither a circumferent stroke, neither manner of drawing, neither difference between light and light. (which in the variety of colours lies hid) although clearly and judicially shewn; and because the just and due shades of a picture must be exprest by a mean of only one single thing, viz. black or red oker, or the like, therefore sensible observations are necessary in the situation, or that which in a picture comes forward or goes backward, to observe the same also in your draught, all which in his due place shall be spoken as thought fit.

The third Step.

Now to come to the third step, we must consider again to learn some new thing, and therefore we commend unto you the Drawing after Rounds of plaister, done by very good Masters; there be the Works of Francisco which has made many fine children in plaister:

A good Figure necessary to draw after.

in like manner the Gladiator of his a very neat and exquisite Figure, the Rape of the Sabina of J de Bolonge, the Laocoon, the Wrestlers, the Greek Venus, the Hercules, the Hermes, the Anatomy of man of several and divers Actions, and several, as well antique as modern faces:

Plaster is one Introduction to the Life

The reason

after all the young Practitioner with very much profit may practice to draw; and this exercise is therefore the more necessary, because it is an Introduction to learn to draw after the life, as drawing after pictures is harder then to draw after a draught, for the reasons abovesaid.

   In like manner, is drawing after plaister harder then drawing after pictures, because in plaister the certainty of the circumferent stroke is not so apparent, neither the shadows nor lights in such a manner apparent as they are in pictures, draughts or prints; the manner, and what is to be observed in this exercise, shall be taught in another place, when I shall speak or teach of every particular exercise by it self.

The fourth Step.

    Now coming to the fourth step, viz. the life it self of all natural things, the Compleatest, the best Master for imitation and liberty, our only observation, for here is all things to be found, of what is to be found, or ever was enquired after, by brave and famous Masters, and therefore very necessary, (as soon as Practitioner in some means understands the foregoing exercises)

Perswasion to much drawing.

to exercise to draw after the life it self, by the direction and instruction of a good Master, with diligence and continual labour of the young Practitioner, according to the old proverb, Dii laberibus omnia vendunt, the gods for labour sell all things; or Gutta cavet lapidem, non vi sit sape cadende, by continual or often dropping, (and not suddenly) is a stone made hollow; therefore before we go to the instruction of the exercises in particular, we recommend to the young Practitioner diligent and a continual drawing, forasmuch as this is the way to attain to the perfection therein, not imagining that as soon as they begin to have only a glimpse of things, that they have enough, and so desist or decline drawing any more, but forthwith take the Pencil in hand, having a desire now more to painting, and not to drawing, which seeming imaginations now adays many young Painters keep very much down and backward in their practice,

Example to others.

which is lamentable and much deplorable, notwithstanding we have so many famous Masters, which continually during their term of life, have spent much of their time in drawing the last period of their lives followed and visited their weekly Colledges and drawn their Academical Figures.

Custom in Rome.

It was a Custom in Rome, and it is as yet observed and kept inviolated, that youth was kept sixteen, eighteen, nay, twenty years to drawing only, without suffering them to take either colour or pencil in their hand, thorow which means they became so expert in the Art of Drawing, that in a little time afterward, all things appertaining unto Painting, they easily, well and perfectly understood, and Master-like made demonstration thereof by their own hand to the world; and therefore it is not to be admired, that so many brave Masters are come forth out of the Schools of Rome, and yet daily come.

This should invite us to imitation.

Which Examples also should be a spur unto us to a diligent and serious imitation, That the Art of Drawing and Painting here in England may flourish, as much as in any part beyond the Seas, nor have any occasion to give Precedency or preeminence to any foreign Artist whatsoever: which is short I had a desire to speak of, to the rousing and stirring up of all Lovers of Art, and these also that has a desire to practice in the same. Now I will proceed, and with singular attendance observe what is remarkable to be observed in every particular step by it self.



 <<Previous Chapter            Table of Contents            Next Chapter>>

Goeree, Chapter IV

transcribed by Lala Ragimov, original spelling kept

An introduction to the general art of drawing. 

A 1674 English translation of
a drawing treatise by Willem Goeree (1635-1711)

<<Previous Chapter            Table of Contents            Next Chapter>>

______________________________________________


CHAP. IV. (the entire text below was in italics, LR)
Of those things which in every degree of the Art of Drawing are necessary to be observed.
COming now to the Practick of the Art of Drawing it self: And first, of Drawing after Draughts or Prints, I shall shew in the first place what is to be observed in drawing after a Print, Draught or Picture; and after I will speak of the manner of handling, and likewise of those things which customarily are most in use in the Art of Drawing, and of some particular Properties. What then appertained to Drawing after Prints,
Drawing after Draughts.
of that I will say nothing in particular, for that which is necessary in drawing after a Draught is also necessary in drawing after a Picture; and because not to make a Repetition of one thing twice; I will pass it by here, and speak of it in its place, where I shall speak of drawing after Pictures.
Drawing after a Picture.
How to place a picture.
Distance.
    Having then a Picture to draw after, put the same in a Place of good light, so that the flickering of the Glass of the Colours doth not hinder you; and for to finde that place, place your self (if possible) so that your eye together with the light of the day, runs to the Picture. Make choice of a reasonable distance, according as the Picture is big or small, at least so far of that with the opening of your eyes you may behold the whole Picture at once, for the greater your Picture is, the further off you must sit to draw after the same.


This image is NOT included in the English translation or in the 1668 Goeree's book, but it appears in later editions, so I thought to post it (from a 1678 German edition digitized here)

Summary translation:
A is the painting to be copied, 
B is the place from where light comes, 
D-C the place of the worst view (because of the reflection)




Put your Principal right before you.
Here it is to be noted, that when you draw after a Draught or Print, you must put the same strait or right before, even as you do a Picture, and you must not lay the same flat down before you, for then you behold the things presently to foreshorten; in the same manner shall your Paper (whereupon you draw) use five or six times double upon a Pannel-board, keeping the same in your lap, and with your knees elevate the same as high as possible; thus shall the thing you draw stand before you upon one end: and after this manner you shall observe the better whether your draught be like unto the Principal, which otherwise (your Draught lying flat before you) you should not see, by the reason aforesaid.
The beginning of a Draught.
This being observed, guess for the first the middle of your Picture, or that which you intend to draw, after having made your guess, shew the same with the point of your coal upon your Paper; then observe your biggest Figures (if there be more then one) touch the same with a light hand in his proper place; and so all that is in the Picture, then it will appear presently whether your guessing and your scetching be true;
You must assure your self of every stroke.
adde hereunto, that you assure your self of every stroke (which you are to draw,) with good reason and observation, taking good heed upon the great and general Parties, omitting the small breakings of Parties to the next scetching or drawing, whereof I shall speak hereafter; and so doing, shall you attain, not only readily, but also judicially, and with pleasure to your purpose; but contrariwise, if you use your self without observation, and as desperate, to begin your drawing, without considering whereunto the same will tend or run, then shall you, having made your draught, draw the same over and over again, and again being drawn over to little or no purpose, be overwhelmed and overcom with melancholy, and extinguish your genius or spirit, or at least cause a great tediousness in the same, and like Ship-Masters which without Compass go to Sea, not knowing where their Landing-place shall be, desperately leave the Rudder, despair of a safe landing, at last miserably perish in the sea;
With patience your must overcome your passions.
therefore I desire that Learners will take diligent heed to their Passions, and to their averse inclinations, for to overcome the same with Patience and Magnanimity, to make a firm purpose, That on that which (otherwise you made account to draw in two or three houres,) you bestow a whole day or two, and so doing, you shall not only proceed slowly and prudently, but you shall sooner then you thought, and better then you should have done otherwise, with great affection and speed finish: When you now rudely, yet with good judgement have made your scetcz, overlook them with a great care whether your Schetz be good, and whether the Actions of the Figure or figures contained in your Principal; you can observe also in your Schetz,
The Actions must appear as first in your scetzing.
for the Actions must shew themselves in the first and the rudest Schetz very apparently, before you can assure your self of any good , in regard that Actions are the life of a Picture, and by consequence of your Drawing. Having this, begin then to correct and amend your Schetz neater and neater, here taking a little away, and adding there a little, for with a Charcoal this is done very conveniently, for easily you may wipe away what is amiss, and may therefore very well be called a good means, attending the Art of Drawing;  you shall also take heed, that when you draw over your Schetz neater and neater, that you do not spoil or take away the first good
To use care, thus in drawing a Schetz neater, that you lost not the action.
Confer your draught with your principal.
Actions of your Schetz, which easily may happen, if you do not consider, (by what bowings or turnings of the several Parts, those or other Actions in a Figure or Figures come to represent themselves, or come again to be worked and spoiled; then pin your Draught upon a Pannel-board fast with a Pin or two; put the same down even with your picture or Draught which you have imitated; set your self down again in your former place, and behold your draught for a time with due observation, comparing the same with your Principal,
Faulss (as soon as seen) to correct.
and you shall easily observe what in your Draught is drawn amiss; be not tedious then, nor unwilling, but amend presently what you see amiss; suffer not a fault to pass by without correction, for such a draught would be a continual trouble of your patience, or by custom of seeing, hinder you to see the faults committed, for reasons as shall be shewn hereafter; take therefore rather Patience to perform all things requisite in this, suffering no faults to escape, that in this manner out of custom you may learn prudently and providently, with much patience to finish your work. Further, it shall profit you more, and a greater Progress you will make in the Art of Drawing,
Better is one good Draught, then 100 without observation
to make one good Draught, then a hundred without observation; you must strive with more pleasure to draw, then to have drawn, that is, rather to desire to be doing then to have done.
You must sometimes behold your work with a fresh eye.
How it comes to pass that we better discern faults.
Reason wherefore.
It is also not impertinent sometimes for one hour or two to lay by his drawing, and to recreate himself in somewhat else, whether it be in reading, or looking upon some good Prints, which doth stir up the spirit for to go on again in his drawing, and to behold the same with eyes unfatigable, and it shall oftentimes come to pass, that you shall espie many faults in your work, which before you could not possibly observe? the reason is that as then we behold our work as if it were another bodies work never by us seen before, and then our eyes easily espies some fault or other, which we take up presently, ex contrario, because we behold our work from the beginning; thereof comes a Custom to the eyes to behold the things of such former shape which hinders that the faults are not easily perceived by our understanding.
Example.
    The truth of this you may easily conceive by daily experience, for example, if we see a new fashion of cloathing, which we conceive to be not fashionable, or not becoming, and which many times is contrary to reason it self, then can we presently espie the faults, and disprove what we dislike in the same, but when this fashion begets a custom, so that for a long season we have had this fashion before our eyes, then we, in stead of an exception, take a love to it, and covet for the same, so that the same thing which before we found great fault withal in beholding it with our eye, now with great pleasure as a brave and a fine thing begin to behold the same. Therefore assoon as you shall espie a fault in your Drawing, amend the same presently, and tarry not, until a custom (as is said before) come to your eyes.
This rule you shall observe in all manner of Drawing, be it after Prints, Draughts, Pictures or Plaister-figures, yea, after the life it self, where conveniency and place will allow and permit the same; this then being well observed, then you shall proceed to a sure and judicial circumferent stroke, to shading and finishing of which, (when we come to speak of finishing) I shall shew divers ways and manners.


<<Previous Chapter            Table of Contents            Next Chapter>>

Monday, 10 February 2014

Preparing to draw (1400s-1700s)

My related posts:


Supplies and set-up procedures for drawing as described in drawing treatises 1400s-1700s.  
For directions on shading and hatching see this post.

1) Drawing tools 
2) Paper  
3) Body position 
4) Hand position 
5) Setting up lighting 
6) Measuring 

My sources:
Cennini  early 1400s
Leonardo 1510s
Vasari 1550
Armenini 1587
Hilliard 1598-1602
Peacham 1606
Norgate 1620s and 1648
Bates 1634
Bosse 1645
Sanderson 1658
Goeree 1668
de Piles 1684 
Salmon 1701
de Lairesse 1701
Jombert 1740 1755


1) Drawing tools

* All treatises mention charcoal (sallow, vine, etc) -- which is used for the first sketch only, to be incompletely erased and retraced with a more durable material (chalk or pen and ink).  The process of making oiled charcoal for final drawings is also described (Goeree and others).

De Lairesse says that chalk is cleaner and makes neater lines but charcoal is best for beginners.

* It is interesting to see how the attitude to pen and ink drawings changes through time:
Armenini listing drawing techniques puts pen and ink as the first way (for the beginner to learn).  Norgate is a fan of elaborate hatched drawings in pen and ink quoting seeing some by Goltzius, large scale and on canvas. Norgate says he prefers it to all others.  For Sanderson 1658 drawing with the pen follows charcoal drawing and precedes chalk drawing in the learning process. De Piles 1684 says some masters suggest pen and ink to be used by beginners because it makes you think more carefully, but most masters are against that view.  Goeree 1668 and de Lairesse 1701 both say pen and ink are a waste of time for a student, Goeree (repeated in Jombert) notes that it is best for engraving students. Jombert says that he considers it not good for beginners because it cannot be erased and that pen and ink drawings are suitable only for architecture.
Goeree advocates using a reed pen instead of a quill.  Earlier treatises suggest raven quills for refined work and goose and other quills for the rest.

* Goeree mentions both red and black chalk, but notes that black chalk is difficult to find and when found it is usually bad quality.  Red chalk (sanguine) is the preferred medium for de Lairesse and Jombert.  They both see it as a difficult material (because of its greasiness and its difficulty erasing), but also as the most beneficial medium for the student to work with.  Earlier treatises emphasise black chalk more.

* Red, black and white chalk can be used in combination of two or all three (the technique now known as aux trois crayons).  White chalk can be made of "tobacco-pipe clay" rolled to the thickness of a finger or a natural chalk (Goeree), and it requires toned paper to be visible.  Drawing on toned paper is seen as a faster way to draw (since the paper replaces the mid-tone) and requiring more experience. (Goeree, de Lairesse). 

* The British treatises of the 1600s and de Piles mention graphite. Cennini (1400s) and the Norgate-related treatises also mention silver and lead-point on parchment.

* Wash (done with a brush with and bistre or other ink, indigo or another dye, sanguine, or other materials tempered with water) is described in most of these treatises. Hatching is suggested to be used on top of smooth washes (Goeree, Jombert).  A heightening of lead white with gum arabic and water is described by Cennini and Armenini for doing washes on toned paper.

The only real survivor of these media is charcoal made of twigs.  Currently the rest of the drawing media are all manufactured by mixing pigments, clays, chalks, graphite and charcoal powders.  There is genuine black chalk and sanguine for sale only at speciality art supplies stores such as Kremer pigments (black chalk, white chalk) and Zecchi (sanguine, brownish black chalk, etc).  Everyone can make their own silverpoint by going to a jeweller and asking for a piece of silver wire.  
 

period materials from my collection

2) Paper


* "The marks of good paper are strength and fine and even grain.
For those who draw with a quill the paper only needs to be smooth, and for those who wash it needs to be smooth and strong.", "There are two types on which you can draw: the white and the half-tone. And of the half-tone there are three types: grey, blue, and the one tinted with bistre." (de Piles, 33)

* Good paper for washing should be thick, firm/sturdy (ferma) and of good sizing.  If the size is weak it will drink the shadows producing spots. (Armenini, 55)

Current paper is mostly cellulose, and the expensive rag papers are mostly cotton.  The majority of paper doesn't have the "laid" surface with chain marks and I've never seen paper with felt fibre marks as you see on papers from the Renaissance and Baroque.   Also papers made of linen rags are extremely rare and expensive.  


Drawing book illustration, 1600-1630
Luca Ciamberlano after Agostino Carracci (British Museum)


3) How and where do I sit when drawing?  How should I place the drawing board?

 * Goeree says that the drawing board should not lie flat before you, but that you should put it in your lap and elevate it with your knees (so you don't see your drawing foreshortened).  You should fold the drawing paper five or six times on the drawing board.  In a life drawing studio Goeree suggests to sit on a stool or on the floor or in any way that is convenient.  When drawing after a drawing, print or painting set them vertically in front of you at a distance at which you can see the whole piece in one glance.  For drawing sculpture Goeree borrows from Leonardo the advice to sit three times as far away from the model as the model is high and to keep your eyes on the same level as the model.

This is slightly different from modern instruction since in a regular drawing class the students are either told to work at an easel or a "horse" (both of which do the job of placing the picture vertically in front of the student rather than flat and foreshortened. The sensation of drawing on a "horse" and in your lap is very different.


 
Bloemaert, Het Tekenboek (Getty, e-book)

4) How do I hold the chalk (pencil, pen) when drawing?  

* Cennini suggests tying a piece of charcoal to a reed or a stick which provides the distance that helps when composing.  Armenini says to set it into a brass holder (cannella di ottone).

* You should hold the pencil (or pen) further from the tip than when you write and not as vertical (Goeree, repeated in Salmon). 

*  You should hatch with a chalk by holding and turning it in such a way that you don't have to sharpen it frequently. (Goeree, repeated in Jombert and Salmon)

* De Lairesse says to keep the chalk or charcoal between the thumb and the index finger resting it on the slightly curved middle finger.

This is consistent with modern instruction. 



From Crispijn van de Passe, 1643,
download book here (Getty Research Institute) 


5) When drawing from life, where should the light sources be?

* When drawing from life Cennini and most other authors recommend light falling from the left side.  If the lighting cannot be controlled by the artist and there are several light sources, Cennini suggests to follow the effects of the dominant light.  (Cennini, Chapters VIII, IX)

* Leonardo da Vinci (repeated and elaborated in Goeree and Hilliard) gives very detailed advice on arranging the lighting (high and large window, northern light, morning or evening light, a sheet of paper over the light source to produce more diffused shadows when the daylight or candlelight is too direct, etc.)

This differs from current mainstream instruction in the fact that several spotlights are used simultaneously to light a model, creating a chaos of shadows that the students are supposed to follow faithfully.  Only in scientific illustration classes and books the classical left-front-top light is advised as being the most practical and producing the clearest and most three-dimensional-looking result.



A man using his porte-crayon to check the vertical allignment of parts and/or to measure.
Note the low chairs and foot rests to keep knees high.
Jacobus Johannes Lauwers, Rijksmuseum, full painting here


6) Measuring 

Many treatises downplay measuring tools and cite the famous Michelangelo saying that the compass should be in the eye and not in the hands.  Sanderson says to learn first to draw heads from prints with a compass and ruler. Many English treatises mention the use of a compass to check your finished piece and compare it with the drawing or print you copied, but not to use it in the process of drawing. De Lairesse mentions using a compass when just beginning to draw simple shapes, then repeating the exercise without one.

* Almost all treatises speak of pausing to look carefully at your original before starting to draw and of judging the distances between parts by eye (Goeree, De Lairesse, etc).  Authors from Cennini to Goeree also suggest leaving your finished or almost finished drawing for some time and coming back to it in order to see mistakes better.

* Leonardo (repeated in Goeree and de Lairesse) suggested using a plumb-line as a tool to help seeing the correspondence of parts in the model and to note which parts bear most weight.

* De Lairesse is the only one I've seen who says that you can measure without a compass using your fingers or your charcoal (when drawing from a sculpture, for example, in addition to judging with the naked eye) but he doesn't elaborate on the process, so I suppose the current measuring technique (arm stretched out with locked elbow, pencil in hand with the thumb measuring the length from the tip of the pencil) was not used.

* De Piles suggests thinking of many imaginary lines, horizontal, vertical and others in your model to see better which parts correspond.  De Lairesse also makes use of vertical and horizontal construction lines drawn with charcoal on the sketch.  In addition, when copying a print he mentions a method for beginners of covering up part of it with a piece of paper and copying just that, then moving the paper downward in steps (a more challenging variation of copying by squares, which was also mentioned in most treatises).

* De Lairesse suggests that it is too much to make a beginner copy a print bigger or smaller than the original, and advises 1:1 copies. In lesson twelve (right after starting drawing from the round) he says that it is time that the student starts drawing things bigger or smaller than they are, because it is essential that he exercises to see the proportions well and that his eye serves him for ruler and compass.
I have never seen anything in the old treatises reminding of the current "sight-sizing" trend other than when the objects are traced mechanically with the help of a piece of glass or a net such as are mentioned by Alberti or Dürer.  But tracing was not considered a legitimate way to draw, at least for a student (see de Lairesse and many other authors).

Currently the "classical" measuring is done with a pencil held parallel to the picture plane in an outstretched arm with elbow locked (to minimise distortions).  Measuring is taught much more rigorously and its procedure is much more rigid than what is described in the treatises.

***
For directions on shading and hatching from the same treatises see this post. 
 



Bibliography
(for more links to digitised versions of drawing treatises see this page)


Armenini, Giovanni Battista. De veri precetti della pittura. Ravenna, 1587

Bates, John. The Mysteryes of Nature and Art. London, 1634. 

Bosse, Abraham (1602-1676). Traicté des manieres de graver en taille douce sur l'airin. Par le Moyen des Eauxs Fortes, & des Vernix Durs & Mols. Ensemble de la façon d'en Imprimer les Planches, & d'en Construire la Presse, & autres choses concernans lesdits Arts. Par A. Bosse, Graveur en Taille Douce. Paris, 1645

Cennini, Cennino. Il libro dell'arte. Late 1300s to ealry 1400s, Italian and English translation

Goeree, Willem Inleydinge tot de Algemeene Teyken-Konst. 1668, 1670 (this German edition scan is readable quality)


Hilliard, Nicholas (1537 (ca.)-1619).  A Treatise Concerning the Arte of Limning, by Nicholas Hilliard, together with, A More Compendious Discourse Concerning ye Art of Liming, by Edward Norgate, with a paralel modernized text.  Ed. R.K.R. Thornton and T.G.S. Cain.  Manchester, 1981.
The original manuscript written c. 1598-1602

Jenner, Thomas (fl.1631-1656 bio). A Book of Drawing, Limning, Washing or Colouring of Maps and Prints: and the Art of Painting, with the Names and Mixtures of Colours used by the Picture-Drawers. Or, The Young-mans Time well Spent.  London, 1652.

Jombert, Charles-Antoine. Methode pour apprendre le dessein. Paris, 1755

Leonardo da Vinci. Trattato della pittura. 1510s, first published 1651  treatiseonpainting.org (or html, liberliber.it pdf)

Lairesse, Gérard de (1640-1711). Grondlegginge ter teekenkonst : zynde een korte en zeekere weg om door middel van de geometrie of meetkunde, de teeken-konst volkomen te leeren.  Amsterdam, 1701  
in Dutch or its later translation to French HERE.

Norgate, Edward (1580/1 - 1650). Miniatura or the Art of Limning. Ed. J. Muller and J. Murrel.  New Haven and London, 1997.
The original manuscripts date c. 1626-8 and c. 1648.

Peacham, Henry (1576?-1643?). The art of drawing with the pen, and limming in water colours, more exactlie then heretofore taught and englarged: with the true manner of Painting upon glasse, the order of making your furnace, Annealing, etc.  London, 1606

De Piles, Roger (1635-1709) Les premiers élémens de la peinture pratique. Paris, 1684.

Ratcliffe, Thomas; Daniel, Thomas (printers); Newman, Dorman; Jones, Richard (booksellers) The excellency of the pen and pencil... London, 1668, 1688

Sanderson, William 1586?-1676.  Graphice, the use of the pen and pensil, or, The most excellent art of painting : in two parts 1658 



©Lala Ragimov

Friday, 27 December 2013

Jombert's drawing treatise

by Lala Ragimov 

This is my quick translation of excerpts of Jombert's Methode pour apprendre le dessein , 1755.  If you see mistakes or have comments, please write below or send me a message.

The book is a compilation of extremely detailed drawing advice by different authors (I could recognise Goeree, de Piles, de Lairesse and Bosse, maybe there are others as well). 
It contains illustrations by/after Cochin, Audran, Le Brun, etc.  An earlier edition has a completely different set of illustrations, some by Abraham Bosse (download here)

Charles-Nicholas Cochin's illustration in Jombert

p62
Of different ways to shade a drawing. 

(borrowed from Goeree - L.R.)
Up to now we have spoken about the outline or contour, now we will explain about shading.
Shading can be done in three ways:
-hatching (en hachant) simply with the chalk, like in prints; that which is bad taste and is almost not practiced except for those who are learning how to engrave;
- graining (en grainant) rubbing the crayon on the paper to prepare the masses of shadows and then hatching on top to form them and stop them: this manner is called "grainer" because this rubbing makes the grain of the paper appear.
- stomping (en estompant) that which is done melting the lights with the darks by the means of a rolled piece of paper with the tip with which one lightly rubs the drawing after it is shaded with the crayon:
p63
this rolled paper is called an estompe.  It could be done with chamois leather rolled that way, or one can even take powder of sanguine or other chalk with the tip of the estompe and make the tints for shading as one does with a brush: then one retouches it stronger with a chalk.

 Polenich after Charles Le Brun
(illustration used by Jombert)


Way of shading by hatching with a chalk.

The manner of shading by hatching is done with lines or hatch-marks which one redoubles ones on top of others in different directions until one gives the necessary force to the shadow, taking care not to cross them too much which makes the drawing hard and bad taste.
That is why one should avoid crossing the lines at right angles but rather to put the second layer diagonally which creates spaces between lines that that look like lozenges (not squares).
I will not enter into more detail here, on the manner to arrange the hatch-marks see le Traité de la Gravure à l'eau forte et au burin of which a new edition came out some years ago.
One needs to be able to hatch in all directions without having to turn the paper every time, and always with a thick crayon, even for the delicate hatch-marks which one puts in the lights, supposing always that one is drawing big, which is necessary if one wants to make progress in this art.  Thus one needs to get used
p64
to a thick chalk and to sharpen it as little as possible.  There are even masters who don't permit their students to sharpen their chalks except one time.  This method is good and not that difficult because as the chalk thickens and its point blunts, it forms angles with which one may mark the most delicate lines.
When one hatches all the shadows with chalk on white paper, it is necessary to take care of the paper that serves for the lights, especially when you use sanguine because it cannot be completely erased with the bread, and it always leaves spots on the paper.  Black chalk dirties the paper less and is less greasy than sanguine.


Manner of drawing by graining.

After having finished your sketch by going over the traces of the first outline with chalk, you "grain" with a lot of force and prepare the drawing throughout: but before shading it completely make sure that your outline is exactly like the original.
Because you want to draw in good taste don't arrange big lines (tailles) and beautiful hatching slavishly except where necessary, because if the drawing is only grained it will seem drawn too softly, obliging you to hatch certain places
p65
 to make half-shadows and to stop the shadows with more firmness: but you need to do that without affectation and that the resulting mix is a fat and soft (velvety) (moelleux) paste.  To draw in a "fatter" manner you put the darkest touches into the thickness of the shadow sufficient to prevent the traits to cut too hard with what is near it and that they hit the main force in the middle.
You should avoid making areas of shadow too thin and too parallel.  Notice also that the nature is never perfectly round, but that one finds it composed of many angles and planes (méplats), but that one shouldn't overemphasize making the contours angular similar to rocks.  This defect would be even worse than drawing too round: one should find the right mean between these two ways of drawing.

A note by Jombert: Planes is a term peculiar to painting.  The human body is not all round but is composed of surfaces that are flat and rounded only at the edges, one needs to make those different surfaces felt in the drawing.  Une manìere meplatte is that which makes the planes felt, une manìere ronde is the one that ignores nature. (borrowed from Goeree - L.R.)


A way to shade by stomping

Sweetening (blending) what one has hatched before by rubbing with an estompe.  If the paper is white, all the half-shadows are done
p 66
by the estompe alone, rubbing lightly because it's charged enough with the colour.  And one should reserve (menager) the white of the paper for the lights.
Sanguine is stomped like black chalk on white or grey paper, but stomped sanguine is not as pleasant-looking as black chalk.  If the paper is grey it's heightened with chalk white; but you cannot stomp it.  Finally one gives force to the greatest shadows by hatching on top, but with little or no stomping.|...|

p67
|...| There are people who give force to their sanguine drawings by retouching them with a bit of black chalk, especially when they don't have dark sanguine: others make flesh-tones with red chalk and the draperies with black chalk to make their drawings more pleasant-looking by the variety of colour.

 Gérard Audran (reused by Jombert) 

About pen drawings

It seems that the pen suits people who draw well more than to beginners,
p74
because once put down it can't be erased.  There are nonetheless those who believe that it's good for beginners to make them pay more attention, but few people think this way because the habit of the pen leads to a hard and dry style of drawing.  For learning it nothing is better than copying good prints where the burin is beautiful and where there is no confusion about hatch-marks, such as prints of Carraccis, Melan and Le Clerc.  This manner of drawing is the best for those who want to practice engraving.
For drawing with a pen plumes of the crow or goose are usually taken, because they are harder and make a neater lin on paper.  The best are the tips of wings, those of right wing, those where the side of the longest barbs looks at the thumb are the best in the hand for drawing or writing.  One should always chose the lightest and thinnest ones: lightest because they cut (split) easier, and thinnest because they will be easiest to cut for thin lines. The oldest are the best as long as they stayed in a dry place. Crow quills are the best for
p75
drawing the landscape.  Swan quills are only good for thick lines.  Drawings done entirely with ink are only used for architecture.

p122
Flowers and plants should be shaded with delicate and careful hatch-marks in the direction of the growth of their leaves
Cochin (?), illustration, Jombert

My related posts:
English translations of drawing treatises (Goeree, de Piles, Jombert)



© Lala Ragimov - when citing my translation, please make sure to write my name next to the quote 

Monday, 25 March 2013

Copying a Rubens drawing

My other posts on topics related to technical art history:
  Copying a Rubens painting (materials, techniques)
Inspired by Rubens (Getty Museum page, featuring my work)

(for more photos of my copies and process see this Getty Museum page where I was featured)

Copy after Rubens.  Original HERE

The "Man in Korean Costume" was on display at the Getty at a beautiful exhibition called Looking East: Rubens's Encounter with Asia.  I started copying the drawing to scale directly from the original at the gallery, but soon realised that the details of this piece are so minute they can only be seen with a magnifying glass, so I ended up copying it from the Getty's very helpful zoom view page.  Afterwards I took the drawing back to the gallery, put it side by side with the original, corrected some value relationships, added accents and other details.


1) marking the position of the figure with willow charcoal (mostly removed in step 2)
2) blocking in the main contours and flat areas of shadow with my black chalk substitute
(compressed charcoal) and black chalk
3) finishing the drawing with details, cross-hatching, red chalk and dark accents

The use of willow or vine charcoal for the first few lines of the underdrawing (that was later removed with an eraser made of bread) is historic practice.  The 1634 Third Book of "The Mysteries of Nature and Art" says that when you finish your sketch with ash, sallow or beech charcoal and "you can finde no great fault in it: wipe it over gently with your wing, so that you may perceive the former strokes then with your blacke chalke, or blacke lead plummets; draw it as perfectly, and as curiously as you can" (p104).  The book is downloadable HERE.
A similar procedure is described in Cennini, in Willem Goeree's treatise of 1668, Gerard de Lairesse's treatise of 1701 (in French HERE), and many others (see my Online drawing treatises directory) Rubens, being a genius draughtsman, probably didn't resort to a charcoal underdrawing, but since it's convenient, historic, and doesn't affect the final look, I used it (after writing this blog I heard from Nancy Yocco, a conservator at the Getty who confirmed not noticing traces of charcoal in Rubens drawings she studied).
My real departure from the historic materials in this copy was in the use of a hard compressed charcoal pencil in conjunction with black chalk. 

Types of drawing media used by Rubens and other Baroque artists.
(Elba sanguine from Zecchi and Ural sanguine from Rublevskaya palitra,
French black chalk and Champagne white chalk from Kremer)

***
Rubens used only black and red chalk in the "Man in Korean Costume".  Examples of his use of more drawing media are the portraits of Isabella Brant and Nicolaas Rubens.  The originals are "aux trois crayons" (black red and white chalk on cream paper) drawings with pen and ink accents. For another one of my aux trois crayons with ink copies see this blog post http://lalaragimov.blogspot.com/2013/02/copying-rubens.html

Copy after Nicolaas Rubens with a Coral Necklace
Genuine black chalk (French), genuine sanguine (Ural),
Champagne white chalk, pen and bistre ink,
Canson Ingres paper cream.


Copy after the Portrait of Isabella Brant
genuine sanguine (Zecchi), compressed charcoal,
white chalk, pen and ink, Hahnemühle Ingres paper

***
An aside about genuine black chalk and its modern substitutes:

Black chalk is a luscious medium with a vivid personality and a temper.  With it it's possible to get both a defined line and a fuzzy light hatch-mark depending on the pressure you apply.  It has a cool greyish tone especially important when used in combination with red chalk because it represents all the cool colours while the red chalk takes on the role of all the warm tones.

The material currently available (mined in France and sold by Kremer Pigments) is very expensive with some inclusions that don't produce any marks.  I've read many times that the deposits of good black chalk have all been exhausted, but I'm sure they still exist in various parts of the world and are not explored only because there is no demand.

Currently there is no good substitute of black chalk on the market.  Derwent charcoal pencils (Hard) have the same cool grey tone, but are very soft and powdery, very unlike the genuine material.  General's charcoal  HB is similar to the chalk in hardness but is too scratchy and black.  Pierre Noire by Conte is close, but too waxy, Wolf's Carbon B is too black and chronically inexpressive.
If anyone has a good suggestion for a substitute or a place where I may buy or dig up some real black chalk, please let me know!


©Lala Ragimov


My other posts on topics related to technical art history:
Inspired by Rubens (Getty Museum page, featuring my work)

Friday, 22 February 2013

Copying a Rubens painting

For information on Rubens technique and a bibliography see my Rubens materials page.

My palette consisted of pigments Rubens often used: lead white, various raw siennas, ochres and umbers, charcoal black, genuine vermilion, Van Dyck brown, chalk (used as extender), lead-tin yellow (type I), madder lake, and some blue verditer (for the white clothing).  Half of the paints were made by me from pigment and cold-pressed linseed oil that I bleached in the sun.


Rubens (original)   "Infanta's Waiting-maid in Brussels", 1623-25.    The Hermitage. (img source - Wikimedia)
Rubens (original, detail)
 "Infanta's Waiting-maid in Brussels", 1623-25.
  The Hermitage.
Lala Ragimov, copy after Rubens

I started by copying a study associated with this painting, an aux trois crayons drawing.

Peter Paul Rubens
Rubens (original)
Red, black, white chalks, pen and ink
353x283m
Copy after Rubens,
Lala Ragimov

I compared the hatch-mark directions in the drawing to those in the painting (visible through the transparent shadows and half-shadows of the painting) to help guide my underpainting.

The first step was a gessoed panel (calcium carbonate chalk and rabbit skin glue) which I didn't sand enough, so the vertical streaks show up in the final painting (lesson learned).  The diagonal streaks (imitating those in the original) come from the egg-oil emulsion imprimatura the recipe for which was kindly described to me by Charlotte Caspers, artist trained as conservator who worked with Rubens imprimatura reconstructions.  For good information on streaky imprimatura see "Preparation for Painting, the Artist's Choice and its Consequences.", p79.

Some Rubens sketches show the grisaille approach while others exhibit what looks like a "dead-paint" layer, muted local colours in mid and light values.

Peter Paul Rubens,
 "grisaille" approach to an oil sketch
Ashmolean


Peter Paul Rubens,
"dead painted" oil sketch showing muted local colours
Getty Museum


 The pale transparent portrait I was copying gave an impression of a grisaille beginning, so I finished the underpainting in raw siennas and umbers with accents in lead white.

Lala Ragimov copy after Peter Paul Rubens, Step 1 Lala Ragimov Copy after Rubens step 1
Step 1
Lala Ragimov after Rubens
Step 1.5...
Lala Ragimov after Rubens

After that I moved to "dead-paint" (doodwerf) stage, adding unsaturated approximations of local colours to be worked up later.  You can observe the dead paint layer on parts of two paintings at the Getty, the Calydonian Boar Hunt and the Return from War.

Lala Ragimov copy after Peter Paul Rubens, Step 2 Lala Ragimov Copy after Rubens
Step 2 face (my take on the dead-paint layer)  Finished copy, detail

The last stage is  adding outlines, final impasto highlights, glazed transparent shadows and dark lines, and finishing the clothes and background (which were done last in Rubens paintings)

***
For me copying the masters I admire has always been and continues to be the best way to learn.  I would recommend it to beginners and mature artists alike.
1)  I strongly recommend making 1:1 scale copies, because if you scale the brush-strokes up or down you lose a lot of information about the technique.  When Rubens himself made his numerous copies of Titian and others, he made them to scale.  If you are copying inside a museum that has rules about making your canvas bigger or smaller, scale the canvas but not the image.  It needs to remain 1:1 for you to learn about brush sizes, shapes; stiffness or softness of the brush hair; the actual width of lines; quality and thickness of impasto; the scale the artist thought needed to produce an effect; the spirit of the work, etc.  I  believe that it is more informative to copy a detail to scale than the whole work smaller or larger.
2) Works on panel are best to be copied on panel, works on canvas are best on canvas.  Pay attention to the weave of the canvas and observe the correct colour of the priming.  When in doubt about the priming/imprimatura makeup or colour, reading conservation literature will usually help.

More of my copies can be found here.

©Lala Ragimov
no artwork or text by Lala Ragimov may be reproduced without her permission.


My other posts on topics related to technical art history